The Muslim Holy month of Ramadan is coming to a close this weekend. School is off for four days as the country celebrates Al Eid and then everything goes back to normal. I have never seen a society change so much as Cairo has during this month. The schedule of EVERYTHING changed. My classes were pushed forward and backward to allow for Iftar (the daily breaking of the fast that began at around 6pm and is now at just past 5:30), waking me up early for my 7:30 Arabic (previously at 8) and keeping me out late for my 9:30 to 11:45pm Supply Chain class (previously at 7:30). Even after 30 days of this, I still haven't figured out the operating hours of most of the shops downtown. Thankfully my cafe kept their normal hours, but every time I'm sitting there in the window and I look across the street at Radio Shack and the Ahwa next to it, my theories are always proved wrong.
I think the most interesting time to observe Ramadan is right during the 5 o'clock hour. At this time I'm usually walking to Costa to work on homework. It's always eery because the streets are virtually empty of cars and without fail every fast food place on Mohammad Mahmoud is PACKED to the seems with people. The queues are full and the seats and tables are holding Cairene's with food lovingly set out but untouched. The street along the University has the sidewalks full of tables where the poor are all gathered over bare breakfasts of bread, helweaat (a sweet licorice drink which is drunk before the proper meal) and sometimes Tamay'a or Kosheri (two Egyptian foods. Tamay'a is a falafel sandwich and Kosheri is a bowl of rice, chickpeas, pasta, and tomato and hot sauce... very good!!). The anticipation is almost palpable before the Iftar prayer rings out over everybody's heads. The devout ones take time for prayers before indulging, but most Cairenes plunge right into their meals before the prayer call is even finished.
A few weeks ago a few of us spent the afternoon in Islamic Cairo, which is the heart of Islam for the entire region, and had the chance to witness the festive nature of Iftar. Thousands of Egyptians were gathered together in the square, sitting in family groups on blankets with picnic dinners brought from home, under the watch of the grand Al Azhar mosque. The restaurants on the square had truckloads of extra tables and chairs brought in and all were packed with eager diners with their dinners tied up in plastic bags or set out on trays before them. When the call rang out, a wave of activity washed over the crowd as they all began to eat in unison. Definitely an unforgettable sight.
But now Ramadan is coming to an end. It was interesting while it lasted, and I'm a little sad to see it go, but not too sad.. I'm looking forward to being able to eat in public again.
