Kids At Midan Tahrir Square

Right now I am relaxing on a nice couch in the perfectly quiet common area of the Anglican Guest House. This is home of the Bishop of Africa in a building across the street from the Anglican Cathedral on Zemalek. Tonight, I have a coffee in hand and laptop on my lap. The lights are low and the place is empty so I have it all to myself. Over the backs of the arranged couches is a dining room table that seats twelve. They have communal meals here a few times a week, and I am invited. To my left is a row of bookcases against the wall, full to the brim. I haven’t even inspected their spines yet to see if there is anything curious or interesting to read. This is a perfectly delightful place to stay. I have a tiny room upstairs but it has an opening onto the balcony and enough room for me, my luggage, and a small desk with a lamp. The showers are hot, and the staff are perfect: David and Margeret, (a cute old British couple) and Daniel (a soft spoken African in flip flops).

So today was my first whole day on my own. Gemal, Manel, Amir, and Nahar took such good care of me, and I am very grateful for everything they did for me. And I expect to stay in touch with them as the year goes on.

The taxi dropped me off in front the All Saints Cathedral and I swiftly cobbled my bags upstairs and got settled. I walked down the street and grabbed some breakfast at the Marriott. And I got ripped off. I went in to a small American style diner and asked for a menu. The waitress said she had a “buffet finish 10, 30) which I thought was the price, ten pounds thirty. Well, what she meant was it was over at 10:30 but I was still welcome to it. Turns out it was 60LE.. I went out in a huff.

After a shower I grabbed the nearest taxi and made it over to AUC through Cairo traffic. Then a good chunk of the day was consumed by signing up for advising, checking course schedules, looking at a flat, getting passport photos for my school ID, coffee at Cilantro, perusing the AUC bookstore for a good city map and a colloquial Arabic phrasebook, poking around campus, and basically hanging out until 5:30 so I could meet Ahmed six blocks away in front of the British Embassy to look at an apartment. WOW, what a place! Gorgeous view of the Nile, literally across the street from the British Embassy, decent interior, and a friendly landlord who invited me and another American out for coffee after inspecting the place. We spent the time in lively conversation, the American, Charlie, and I exchanged all of the things we wanted to do and see while we are here as well as out opinions on this class or that, and various parts of town and the chaotic nature of the place. Ahmed talked about the different kinds of families in Egypt and how people are the same even though cultures are different. It was a good time. On the way back Charlie pulled me into a little Falafel shop and we both ordered sandwiches. Charlie doesn’t speak a word of Arabic; all he did was hold up two fingers and said “Two. Two.” The workers were left to figure out the rest. As they made our orders I taught him a few useful words. “Shook-RAN” he told the shopkeeper as we left. I smiled at his pronunciation. “Shukrun,” I said over my shoulder. “Massalama” the man replied.


AUC Campus & Me at the Corniche


Two Nile Views